Grayson Highlands

Trip legs (latest at top):

14 Nov 04 - Traveling to Grayson Highlands State Park, Virginia
Sunday morning we strike camp from Douthat State Park and drive south along the Blue Ridge Parkway. Our next destination is Grayson Highlands State Park, picked during our research in New Jersey because it in on our route, and it is still open for camping. We have no idea of the stunning vistas that await.

Blue Ridge Parkway Harvest
We didn't meet the family that set out this antique FarmAll tractor and the wagon full of pumpkins, but we wished we had the time to stop in and thank them.
Virginia Piedmont
Looking east from the Blue Ridge Parkway.

15 Nov 04 - Exploring Grayson Highlands State Park, Virginia
Monday morning we visit the ranger station and learn about nearby hikes, including the possibility of hiking to the summit of Mt Rogers, the highest peak in Virginia. We also learn we are in the middle of deer hunting season, and that during our stay hunting will be allowed within the park.

Big Pinnacle Trail
We start today's short hike from Massie Gap, and climb Big Pinnacle Trail. The day is clear and we have lunch enjoying this tremendous view. The park seems almost deserted.
Grayson Sunset
Dawn decides she wanted to meditate as the sun set, sitting in the tent facing west, with the door open. This is the show she gets. I stop practicing mandolin and pick up my camera. This photo is literally from right next to our tent. Shortly after dark we hear what sounds like children playfully howling, and only later realize we have been serenaded by coyotes.

16 Nov 04 - Summiting Mt Rogers, Virginia's Highest Point
Tuesday we realize we are going to have overcast skies, but we can't wait days for the weather to clear, and we prepare for a long hike, hopefully all the way to the summit of Mt Rogers. This should be an elevation gain of about 1800', and while not a long walk, we expect to be on the trail a good 6 hours.

We start our trek through Grayson Highlands north from Massie Gap along the Rhododendron Trail, soon shifting onto the AT (Appalachian Trail). The AT takes us out of the state park and into Mt Rogers National Recreation Area in the Jefferson National Forest. We are truly in the High Country now, and the long views in every direction are spectacular and unrelenting. We realize we have stumbled into a special place.

Jefferson National Forest
While not actually above tree line, because of our elevation, tree clumps are separated by grasslands.

The AT and several other trails meet at Rhododendron Gap. The gap itself is not well-marked, but the confluence of trails, the topography, and the abundance of rhododendron shrubs let us establish our location. From here we enter Lewis Fork Wilderness, part of Jefferson National Forest. We trek through the highlands "south" along the AT, also named the Pine Mountain Trail here, then turn west along the Mt Rogers Spur Trail toward the Mt Rogers summit. About a mile from the summit we climb up into the boreal forest, cooler and damper than the highlands. The forest here is a mere isolated extension down the high-elevation ridges of the Appalachians, an isolated outlier of the main body of the boreal forest in Canada and Russia.

Mt Rogers Summit
We enjoy a tasty lunch of hummus for Dawn, and cheese and mustard sandwich for me. Right on this rock is the USGS survey marker for the Mt Rogers summit, so at 5729' this is as high as you can go in Virginia. Because of the forest, there are no views from the summit, and indeed, the survey marker is the best way to know we have summited.
Grayson Wild Ponies
There are two herds of wild ponies in the highlands, and these ponies are managed by the Mt Rogers NRA. Hikers are asked not to feed or disturb the ponies. They are very tame, and allow me to approach quietly to get these pictures. Dawn and I really enjoy this afternoon.

Here is the first video of the ponies: Survey of Wild Ponies, Grayson Highlands State Park, Virginia, 16 Nov 2004 (25 MB, 88 sec)

Here is the second video of the ponies: Up Close and Personal with the Wild Ponies, Grayson Highlands State Park, Virginia, 16 Nov 2004 (18 MB, 60 sec)

Highlands Wild Pony
Continuing our descent, the photographs compose themselves. Unbelievable, isn't it?
Bald in Grayson
Back in the state park, a neighboring bald to the east rises before the Virigian Piedmont.
Grayson Afternoon
Down at this elevation, the ponies are managed by Grayson Highlands State Park.

17 Nov 04 - Cabin Creek in Grayson Highlands State Park
Wednesday we plan only a short hike along Cabin Creek Trail, as we recover from the exertions of yesterday's summit hike. We dawdle, enjoying ourselves as we contemplate the end of our trip for this year.

Cabin Creek
Along the Cabin Creek Trail, the sound of rushing water fills the mountain hollow. Maybe because of the mountain's stillness, or maybe because the hollow holds in and reflects the sound, little Cabin Cabin creek sounds like a much larger creek than it really is.
Cabin Creek Waterfall
As far as we know these waterfalls aren't named, at least they weren't on our trail map. All of Cabin Creek is understated, as creeks go, but it is a nice, quiet day for a hike along the water. By this point in our trip we have hiked along quite a bit of water, and this little creek is nothing special. But all creeks have their charm. There is something magical about water flowing over rock.
The Curl
I love to be on the lookout for a formation in the creek where the water does something special. During the review process for our greeting cards, this image didn't make the cut. But I love it. We are looking at a angle into Cabin Creek as the creek flows away from the camera, folding over onto itself in a perfect permanent curl. Hawaii 5-0?

18 Nov 04 - Returning to the Midwest
We decide we will not continue further southwest along the Blue Ridge Parkway into North Carolina for one last state park before Thanksgiving. We have been outside for over two weeks now, and the temperature has been consistently below freezing at dawn for over a week. Of course, at Grayson Highlands our campsite is at about 4800 feet in elevation. With the short winter days, we have been spending 2-3 hours each evening just keeping warm by the campfire, too cold to even play our instruments.

After the high-elevation hikes we have enjoyed here in Grayson Highlands, we realize we are not going to find any substantially more beautiful spot just down the road. We declare victory, and end this autumn's explorations. We are deeply satisfied with our journey so far, slowly grasping what a beautiful country we live in.